Monday, August 6, 2012

Diedre- Beta

Pitch 1: 50-60m pitch.  Start up a slab and sling trees for protection.  Look for the obvious cracks for additional opportunity to place gear.  Aim straight for the obvious ledge with bolts that appears after the 2nd major crack.  Good belay stance on a ledge.  5.7

Pitch 2: From the bolts follow the prominent feature at a 45 degree angle left, then traverse left.  Don't climb too high here.  As you traverse off the 45 degree angle slope, you will notice a feature on the rock for good foot placements.  Bolted belay with good, comfortable stance. 5.6, though the start is the only tricky part.  There are no intermediate bolts.  ~10-15m

Pitch 3: Follow the obvious crack system to bolts.  Look for gear placements inside the crack, and on top of the adjacent rock feature.  The crux is a tricky move from the lower rock feature to the higher, adjacent rock feature.  Opportunities to lay back.  Gear up to #2 works well.  The belay is a semi-hanging belay.  ~50m, 5.8

Pitch 4: Continue up the corner in the crack system.  Gear placements similar to pitch 4.  Bolted belay, slightly more comfortable than previous belay, but only slightly. ~50m, 5.8

Pitch 5: Follow a low angle crack system on slab.  This pitch takes smaller gear, microcams and small nuts/tricams work well here.  Bolted belay, comfortable stance, 5.7

Pitch 6: The climbing on pitch 6 is very similar to pitch 5, follow a corner system up a slab.  However, the increase in difficulty rating (5.8) is due to two factors.  Opportunity to place gear is less, and there is a bouldery move at the finish.  Protect the finish with the existing piton or place gear or sling a sturdy root (or all three).  35-45m, 5.8  Belay off tree

Note: Recommend having smaller gear for this route finger tip to thin hand

Related links:

Diedre Trip Report
Calculus Crack Trip Report
Calculus Crack Beta

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