Saturday, July 28, 2012

Calculus Crack - Beta

Pitch 1: Climb through trees and over boulders.  Few vertical sections with fist and hand jams, slinging trees provide most of the protection. Big gear works well for this pitch.  Pitch one ends when you are facing a near vertical hand crack.  Build your belay and bring up second

Pitch 2: We went climbers left around the corner and did the 2nd pitch of St Vitus Dance by accident.  The real pitch 2 climbs a short hand crack and then 4th class terrain to a tree belay.  The 2nd pitch of St Vitus dance follows a longer hand & finger crack that is run out towards the end to bolts.  Bring big gear, double set of #1 - #3 and a #4 are good for this pitch.  In my opinion, this variation is more interesting, albeit sketchy (wet conditions made for little friction on the run-out section).

Pitch 3: Beautiful parallel lines of hand and fist jams straight up.  Clean rock, good pro, awesome friction, cool exposure.  Build a belay


Pitch 4: Crux pitch.  The start takes small gear, 2-3 microcams are good.  Tricky finger crack follows left around a hand crack until you reach a near vertical flake.  Build a belay.

Pitch 5: Climb the flake and the following hand crack to a slab.  Climber's right for runout but easy slab climbing to bolts.

Pitch 6: Long runout slab climbing, but pretty easy.  Hip belay while anchoring yourself to a tree

Note: The book gives this route 3 stars, but IMO it's a 4-4.5 star route.  Must do!

Squamish BC - Climbing Calculus Crack; A Trip Report (Kinda)

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